Does anyone know if this cover is a direct bolt on for my '99 AIV?
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Originally posted by 99PanozAIV View PostDoes anyone know if this cover is a direct bolt on for my '99 AIV?
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...rential-GirdleAttached Files
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OK.......I haven't been underneath it in I can't remember when, but that's not what I expected. Thanks for the pic.
On a different topic, you haven't done a shorty header install by any chance, have you? I can't remember if you were the one that bought the Ford shorties. I bought the JBA and was planning on having the work done but then got laid off so I'm wondering if I can do it without disassembling half the engine compartment. Thanks again.1. 1999 Panoz AIV roadster, SCT Xcal2, LDC cooling mod
2. 2008 Audi S4 Avant
3. 2014 Mini Cooper S Countryman
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Originally posted by 99PanozAIV View PostOK.......I haven't been underneath it in I can't remember when, but that's not what I expected. Thanks for the pic.
On a different topic, you haven't done a shorty header install by any chance, have you? I can't remember if you were the one that bought the Ford shorties. I bought the JBA and was planning on having the work done but then got laid off so I'm wondering if I can do it without disassembling half the engine compartment. Thanks again.
I really don't see any reason that you shouldn't try this yourself. Just take your time and try not to rush the process and you should be fine. When I did mine, I completely removed the entire exhaust system and had it ceramic coated (I purchased the shorty's un-coated and had the coater do both at the same time to ensure a perfect match in the coatings) so a buddy to help support the weight will prove to be quite valuable as the only assistance you'll likely require. I also took some advice from one of those books that I believe that you have on the 4.6L engines about reusing the stainless steel exhaust manifold gaskets. It suggested that when doing the shorty install, reuse the factory gaskets with a lite coating of copper gasket sealant on each side before install and use the Stage 8 locking header bolts. Just be sure to follow the directions with the Stage 8's and don't try to rush the "heat cycling" process as this just takes time & patience to do properly.
Also note a few of the following points:
If the new headers doesn't come with a new crush gasket for the passenger side, pick one up and replace. Should be around $5 but will save lots of heartache later.
Best to remove the entire hood to complete the project so be sure to pick a buddy who doesn't have slippery fingers and that you trust. You will only need a 10mm box end wrench to do this. Do not disassemble the hood attachment mechanism.......simply remove the 10mm stainless steel bolts that hold the mechanism within the "cradle" and roll the cradle rearwards to be able to lift out.
Use a lite coating of anti-seize on the Stage 8 locking header bolts while doing the install.
I had to trim some of the Stage 8 locking fasteners to a custom fit so a Dremel Tool may prove useful here for this task.
I hope this helps. If you get in a bind, just reach out again with any questions.
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Great info, much appreciated. I was going with Stage 8 from some other things I had read, but hadn't heard about the crush gasket. I gotta admit, that looks nice underneath. I already got the JBAs ceramic coated so would probably be tough to match...hadn't even occured to me to do the whole thing.1. 1999 Panoz AIV roadster, SCT Xcal2, LDC cooling mod
2. 2008 Audi S4 Avant
3. 2014 Mini Cooper S Countryman
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