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Any tips on removing the dash to get at gauge lights...

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  • Any tips on removing the dash to get at gauge lights...

    One thing I hate is the incredibly dim incan lighting (yes, I have the light knob turned up). I'm thinking about replacing the bulbs with hi intensity LEDs.

    Anyone have some pointers on getting to the gauges to replace the lights?

    TIA

  • #2
    Originally posted by sshrum View Post
    One thing I hate is the incredibly dim incan lighting (yes, I have the light knob turned up). I'm thinking about replacing the bulbs with hi intensity LEDs.

    Anyone have some pointers on getting to the gauges to replace the lights?

    TIA
    Can't offer much help regarding the dash (center console) but would love to know more about it if you figure it out.
    Speaking of the dim incandescent lighting.......I've been searching for years for a suitable replacement for the interior courtesy lights under the dash. I would like something with the same size diameter as the existing (not interested in having to remove and re-drill the kick panels but also space is somewhat limited in these areas as it is) but something with a little more "punch" so to speak. Perhaps in your quest for better lighting you can also keep an eye out for something that may work for this as well?

    Comment


    • #3
      I removed my windshield and dash to get to the HVAC unit to gut it and install a larger heater with no A/C. It takes some time and you'll find the dash a fairly tight fit once you remove the screws holding it. The dash wiring makes it difficult to maneuver.
      First remove the panel pieces under the steering wheel and under the bottom side of the passenger compartment.
      There are 3 nuts that hold the windshield on. One on each end and one in the center.
      To access the nuts, it will be helpful (better lighting) if you remove the black cowling immediately in front of the windshield. Open the hood to access it. Get a good flashlight and someone to help you hold the windshield.
      Oh - if you remove the windshield wipers, it will make things go better.
      After removing the nuts from the windshield, you can lift out it out, and you will see the 3 bolt ends that the nuts captured.
      The dash and center console are connected by nuts and bolts. It's better to unscrew them at their attach points and remove as a single unit.
      After removing the windshield, the screws holding the dashboard are obvious - underneath the windshield.
      To detach to console section, you will have to remove the e-brake interior cover since it lays on top of the console. I forgot how this is attached. I removed mine a while ago when I moved the e-brake).
      Next, you need to unscrew the trim ring that's around the shifter. Remove the shift knob first - it'll unscrew from the shaft.
      When you lift off the trim ring, the leather shifter boot will come off as well.
      Then you can see the screws that hold the console in place.
      Oh - remove the steering wheel. You need it off so you can manipulate the Dash/console unit so you can get to the back of the dash.
      Now the dash/console should be ready to be removed. Do it by lifting the back of the console and pulling up.
      Be careful. There are an incredible amount of wires.
      The gauges are difficult to get to and require a lot of patience. But, if you got this far you're probably patient (or drunk) anyway.
      I'll attach some pics that may be helpful. This is not a simple job. /
      Attached Files
      -Differential gears changed from 3:27 to 3:73
      -Custom Rollbar - 1 5/8" Tubular Steel. #4130 Alloy [Chrome Moly]. Powder Coated Silver
      -Front Brakes - Brembo, 4-Piston,14-inch Rotors/ Rear Brakes - Cobra Mustang 11.65-inch vented rotor
      -E-Brake - Lokar EHB700F-01-lg repositioned to passenger side floor from drive shaft tunnel
      -Steeda Underdrive Pullies / Steeda Firewall Clutch Cable Adjuster
      -Billett Aluminum Clutch Quadrant / A/C Delete Kit /MSD Coils

      Comment


      • #4
        Here are some more pics.
        Attached Files
        -Differential gears changed from 3:27 to 3:73
        -Custom Rollbar - 1 5/8" Tubular Steel. #4130 Alloy [Chrome Moly]. Powder Coated Silver
        -Front Brakes - Brembo, 4-Piston,14-inch Rotors/ Rear Brakes - Cobra Mustang 11.65-inch vented rotor
        -E-Brake - Lokar EHB700F-01-lg repositioned to passenger side floor from drive shaft tunnel
        -Steeda Underdrive Pullies / Steeda Firewall Clutch Cable Adjuster
        -Billett Aluminum Clutch Quadrant / A/C Delete Kit /MSD Coils

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the write up...I'll take some pics when I tear mine down as well and post them.

          Comment


          • #6
            Has anyone removed the instrument cluster on the Esperante? How do you do it? I want to change a blown bulb and put chrome trim rings on.

            Thanks in advance

            Comment


            • #7
              Don't over look the head lamp switch those lights are on a analog resistor and you may have a defective head lamp switch and not dim bulbs. It's a lot of work to find out to was just the headlamp switch

              Comment


              • #8
                Esperante gauge cluster access.

                Esperante dash, 2002
                I have had the instruments out, and all the dash in fact.
                Not really difficult, but some screws hard to get to/locate.
                Center console must come out, remove gear knob, screw under handbrake and 2 under console lid, unplug switches.
                Main console has 2 screws on each side. Move seat back and forth to get to them. Console very tight to get out, pulling Hand brake on very hard helps too. Watch gauge lens as it may get scratched if not careful. Lift rear out first.
                Then panel under instrument surround. 3 screws. Easy, now you should see all of instrument cluster, 2 screws on top, 2 on sides. I found I had to loosen all bracket screws to make it easier. Then just hustle cluster out. I had enough loom length to see and get to locks on wire plugs. All bulbs easy to get to now.
                Reinstall just the opposite. I put a sheet of plastic against my glass so as not to scratch it when console refitted.

                I had some sun damage on mine, that quickly escalated, all back together and enjoying summer in ohio.
                Have some photos here of dash repairs.

                Comment


                • #9
                  TXFM, two of your pics show different carpeting. Did you do that yourself and, if yes, what type of carpet and where'd you get it? I assume no one makes fitted carpet for these cars.
                  1. 1999 Panoz AIV roadster, SCT Xcal2, LDC cooling mod
                  2. 2008 Audi S4 Avant
                  3. 2014 Mini Cooper S Countryman

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thank you Teamkiwi

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 99PanozAIV View Post
                      TXFM, two of your pics show different carpeting. Did you do that yourself and, if yes, what type of carpet and where'd you get it? I assume no one makes fitted carpet for these cars.
                      Sorry for not responding sooner - finally got online to look at the site. I forget what the carpet material is - I had it cut from a pattern I made from the original carpet, and then I fitted it and installed (glued) it. You'll notice that I have a curve in my tunnel - I made a rounded top cap from maple ( 2pcs laminated). The real tunnel top is flat.

                      I didn't search for fitted carpet replacements since I changed the layout of the cockpit to move the e-brake to the passenger side floor.
                      -Differential gears changed from 3:27 to 3:73
                      -Custom Rollbar - 1 5/8" Tubular Steel. #4130 Alloy [Chrome Moly]. Powder Coated Silver
                      -Front Brakes - Brembo, 4-Piston,14-inch Rotors/ Rear Brakes - Cobra Mustang 11.65-inch vented rotor
                      -E-Brake - Lokar EHB700F-01-lg repositioned to passenger side floor from drive shaft tunnel
                      -Steeda Underdrive Pullies / Steeda Firewall Clutch Cable Adjuster
                      -Billett Aluminum Clutch Quadrant / A/C Delete Kit /MSD Coils

                      Comment

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